Opinion: Tony Butt - Five Things All Surfers Will Learn from My New Book 'Waves'
The big wave surfer on his mission to demystify ocean science.
For surfers, waves are everything. We chase them, we ride them, we talk about them endlessly. But how many of us truly understand them?
The concept behind this book began years ago, with an article I published in Surfer’s Path magazine. The editor, Alex Dick-Read, casually mentioned he was looking for a ‘wave expert’ to write an article describing all the different types of waves in the Universe. Despite not being the physicist or academic he probably had in mind, I convinced him to let me compile a short, alphabetical list of waves.
Looking back, that first article wasn't great. It included waves irrelevant to surfing, and I even had to add some theoretical ones to fill out the alphabet. But it planted a seed - an idea that stayed with me and eventually grew into this book.
What started as a simple list has evolved into something much more: a unique list of waves, tailored for those who love the sea but don't want to drown in physics textbooks.
This isn't your typical wave science tome. You won't find dense equations or impenetrable jargon here. Instead, imagine a surfer's guidebook to waves - 34 chapters, each one a bite-sized exploration of a different type of wave or surf spot. From A-frames to river mouths, from tidal bores to the incredible 'morning glory' sky wave (which is, believe it or not, a 3000-foot-high surfable wave), we cover it all in language that's accessible and engaging.
What makes this book unique? Think of it as ‘random access' - designed for the curious mind that wants to dip in and out. Each chapter stands alone, allowing you to explore at your own pace. It's for the surfer who wants to understand why that perfect barrel forms, but can also be read by anybody who spends a lot of time on the coast or in the ocean, and anyone who's ever stood at the shore and wondered, "Why does the ocean do that?"
As a taster, here are five things that all surfers, whatever their level, will get from Waves.
1. You’ll get a better insight into where waves come from, and why they behave the way they do.
Waves delves into the mysteries of wave formation and behaviour. You'll discover why the first day of a big, clean winter swell offers the most powerful and lined-up waves. You’ll also learn why some beachbreaks shovel the wave energy into peaks when there is no defined sandbar setup.
For instance, you'll learn why a set of six waves might break consistently in one spot, only for all the waves in the next set to break in another spot. These powerful, hollow waves that allow for short tube rides before fading out are not random occurrences - there's fascinating science behind their formation.
Understanding these patterns will transform your perspective on the waves you ride.
2. You’ll learn why, sometimes, the forecast doesn’t tell you everything about the swell.
Ever arrived at the beach to find conditions drastically different from the forecast? Waves will equips you with the knowledge to understand why, and help you read between the lines of the average swell forecast.
Take a classic scenario: a forecast predicting four feet at 12 seconds, with a light southerly wind: conditions on which your favourite beachbreak absolutely thrives.
And yet, when you turn up, the truth is very different: waves with a ‘sidewinder’ or ‘corkscrew’ shape, that ruin the swell and make the waves frustrating and sectiony. The crew are angry, disappointed and bewildered.
Why does this happen, and how can you predict this nasty little side-swell? Waves will help you understand.
3. You’ll learn more about what’s going on when it’s big, which will boost your confidence..
Knowledge is power, especially when facing big waves, and Waves provides insights that can turn intimidating situations into manageable challenges.
Every surfer, whatever their level, has paddled out into waves way beyond their paygrade. On a big day, it might be difficult even to get off the beach. You stand at the shore as a giant tongue of water rushes towards you. As it turns around and sucks back out, you jump into the flow. About 30 metres out, you hit this wall of water that collapses in front of you and pushes you back up the beach again. It takes you ages to get out of this seemingly endless loop.
What exactly is going on here?
The book also demystifies set wave behaviour on bigger days. In big waves, everybody knows never to take off on the first wave of the set. But sometimes, each subsequent wave becomes more wobbly, bumpy and ledgy, and to take off on them would spell disaster. The first one was much cleaner.
Why is this case, and what’s really the smart choice? Waves will help you understand.
4. You’ll be thinking about the waves, not the people around you
Call me a romantic if you like, but surfing is all about connecting with nature. Waves will help you focus on this connection by giving you a deeper understanding of the ocean's dynamics.
Instead of thinking about doing a better top turn than that other guy, or why that kid keeps paddling inside everybody, or who might be watching or taking photos from the beach, you'll find yourself absorbed in the waves themselves.
You'll start noticing subtleties in wave behaviour that you might have overlooked before. This heightened awareness not only improves your surfing but also deepens your appreciation for the ocean's complexity and beauty.
5. It will enhance your surfing experience, even in poor conditions
The whole point of this book – and a lot of the stuff I write – is to try to make people aware that the ocean is really a wonderful natural playground; how it can enhance your daily experience and make you a happier person. Having some background knowledge about the waves can give you a richer experience of surfing, in and out of the water.
In the same way, getting out there among the waves can add meaning to all that theory. It’s a feedback loop, just like a cat chasing its tail, a snowball rolling down a hill, or the very mechanisms that generate waves on the ocean.
To find out more about Tony’s book and order a copy, click here.
The man’s knowledge is off the hook. Remember meeting Tony on a trip in the north and I was spell bound by how he was redding the chats the weather then applying his knowledge and what we where seeing with our eyes . A true master at his craft .
I love seeing science finding its way into surfers' hands. Thank you for pointing this one out, books like this are what fueled my career shift into ocean science. Getting more familiar with the types of waves has made them even more beautiful in my eye, and I hope in yours too.